Discover the invisible architecture of Fragrances. From the first impressions to the lasting base, explore how the temporal olfactory experience that defines each Fragrance is built and learn to identify the aromatic evolution that turns a simple scent into a complete sensory symphony.
Definition of Olfactory Notes
The olfactory notes are the different aromatic components perceived at different moments during the development of a fragrance on the skin. This fundamental concept of modern perfumery explains how a fragrance evolves temporally, revealing different aromatic facets according to its molecular volatility and creating a dynamic and complex olfactory experience.
Importance of Temporal Structure
- Dynamic experience: Fragrances constantly change and evolve
- Aromatic complexity: Multiple layers of olfactory perception
- Art of composition: Balance between different volatilities
- Olfactory memory: Each phase creates distinct lasting impressions
- Natural personalization: Each skin develops the notes uniquely
The scientific basis of the temporal perception of olfactory notes is based on differences in molecular volatility of the ingredients. The lighter molecules (low molecular weight) evaporate quickly and are perceived first, while the heavier molecules (high molecular weight) evaporate slowly and last longer on the skin.
The Olfactory Pyramid: Architecture of the Fragrance
Olfactory Pyramid - Fundamental Concept
Definition: The olfactory pyramid is the graphic and conceptual representation of how a Fragrance is temporally structured, dividing the ingredients into three levels according to their volatility and moment of perception. This architectural metaphor, developed in the 20th century, has become the universal language to describe the temporal evolution of fragrances.
Pyramid Structure
Top Level: Top Notes
- Position: Apex of the pyramid
- Function: First olfactory impression
- Duration: 15-30 minutes
- Volatility: Very high
Middle Level: Heart Notes (Heart/Middle Notes)
- Position: Center of the pyramid
- Function: Main character of the Fragrance
- Duration: 2-4 hours
- Volatility: Medium
Lower Level: Base Notes (Base Notes)
- Position: Base of the pyramid
- Function: Structure and duration
- Duration: 6-24 hours
- Volatility: Low
The idea of the olfactory pyramid emerged in the 20th century as a way to explain the temporal complexity of modern Fragrances. Before this concept, fragrances were described more simply, but the development of new synthetic ingredients and more sophisticated formulation techniques required a more precise language to describe these complex olfactory experiences.
1. Top Notes (Top Notes)
Top Notes - The First Impressions
Definition: The top notes are the most volatile aromatic components of a fragrance, perceived immediately upon applying the Fragrance and create the first olfactory impression. These notes are crucial for initial attraction and determine if a fragrance is appealing at first contact.
Technical Characteristics
- Molecular weight: 50-150 g/mol (approximately)
- Vapor pressure: High (>1 mmHg at 25°C)
- Typical duration: 15-30 minutes
- Percentage in formula: 20-30% of total
- Main function: Immediate impact and initial attraction
Typical Ingredients of Top Notes
Citrus - The Kings of the Opening
Bergamot
Olfactory profile: Elegant citrus with floral and spicy facets
Lemon (Citrus limon)
Olfactory profile: Acidic, fresh, energizing, clean
Sweet Orange (Citrus sinensis)
Olfactory profile: Sweet, juicy, cheerful, comforting
Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi)
Olfactory profile: Bitter, refreshing, slightly green
Aromatic Herbs - Freshness Green
Lavender
Olfactory profile: Aromatic, relaxing, clean, slightly camphoraceous
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Olfactory profile: Intense aromatic, camphoraceous, Mediterranean
Mint (Mentha species)
Olfactory profile: Fresh, mentholated, refreshing, clean
Aldehydes - Synthetic Shine
Aliphatic Aldehydes (C10, C11, C12)
Olfactory profile: Metallic, soapy, bright, clean
Psychological Function of Top Notes
Top notes have an immediate and decisive psychological impact:
- First impression: Purchase decision within the first 30 seconds
- Recognition: Immediate identification of the fragrance
- Mood: Immediate influence on mood and energy
- Olfactory memory: Creation of the first mental association
2. Heart Notes (Heart Notes)
Heart Notes - The Soul of the Fragrance
Definition: Heart notes constitute the aromatic core of a fragrance, revealing themselves after the evaporation of the top notes and defining the main character of the Fragrance. They represent the true personality of the fragrance and determine its fundamental olfactory identity.
Technical Characteristics
- Molecular weight: 150-300 g/mol (approximately)
- Vapor pressure: Medium (0.1-1 mmHg at 25°C)
- Typical duration: 2-4 hours
- Percentage in formula: 40-50% of the total
- Main function: Define character and personality of the Fragrance
Typical Ingredients of Heart Notes
Flowers - The Classic Heart
Rose - The Queen of the Heart
Olfactory profile: Velvety, romantic, with spicy and Green facets
Jazmín - The Nocturnal Sensuality
Olfactory profile: Intense, narcotic, slightly animalic, sweet
Iris - The Powdery Elegance
Olfactory profile: Powdery, elegant, sophisticated, slightly metallic
Neroli - The Citrus-Floral Elegance
Olfactory profile: Delicate, fresh, slightly bitter, elegant
Spices - Warmth and Complexity
Cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum)
Olfactory profile: Fresh-spicy, slightly citrusy, elegant
Pink Pepper (Schinus molle)
Olfactory profile: Soft spicy, slightly sweet, rosy
Fruits - Modernity and Accessibility
Peach (Synthetic molecules)
Olfactory profile: Sweet, juicy, velvety, comforting
Compositional Function of Heart Notes
Heart notes fulfill multiple technical and artistic functions:
- Identity: They define the main character of the Fragrance
- Bridge: They connect top notes with base notes
- Duration: They provide the main olfactory experience
- Complexity: They provide the greatest aromatic richness
- Recognition: They create the memorable olfactory signature
3. Base Notes (Base Notes)
Base Notes - The Lasting Base
Definition: Base notes constitute the structural foundation of a Fragrance, providing depth, duration, and fixation power to the composition. These notes reveal themselves in the final stages of the Fragrance development and are responsible for the lasting impression that remains in the olfactory memory.
Technical Characteristics
- Molecular weight: 300-500+ g/mol (approximately)
- Vapor pressure: Low (<0.1 mmHg at 25°C)
- Typical duration: 6-24 hours
- Percentage in formula: 20-30% of total
- Main function: Structure, duration, and fixation
Typical Ingredients of Base Notes
Woods - The Classic Structure
Sandalwood - The Noble Wood
Olfactory profile: Creamy, milky, soft, warm, slightly sweet
Cedar - The Dry Elegance
Olfactory profile: Dry, clean, elegant, slightly spicy
Vetiver - The Earthy Roots
Olfactory profile: Earthy, Green, smoky, very long-lasting
Oud - The Liquid Gold
Olfactory profile: Complex, animalic, medicinal, deep, resinous
Musks - Sensuality and Fixation
Modern Synthetic Musk
Olfactory profile: Warm, sensual, clean, enveloping
Resins - Oriental Depth
Labdanum (Cistus ladaniferus)
Olfactory profile: Resinous, warm, slightly animalic, sweet
Benzoin (Styrax benzoin)
Olfactory profile: Sweet, balsamic, vanilla-like, comforting
Vanilla and Sweets - Gourmand Warmth
Vanilla - The Universal Sweetness
Olfactory profile: Sweet, creamy, warm, comforting
Tonka Bean - The Sweet Almond
Olfactory profile: Sweet, almondy, freshly cut hay, warm
Patchouli and Earthy - Natural Depth
Patchouli - The Earthy Essence
Olfactory profile: Earthy, humid, deep, slightly sweet
Structural Function of Base Notes
Base notes fulfill essential technical functions:
- Fixation: They slow down the evaporation of more volatile notes
- Structure: They provide the "backbone" of the Fragrance
- Duration: They ensure the persistence of the Fragrance
- Depth: They provide complexity and final richness
- Memory: They create a lasting and memorable impression
4. Olfactory Chords: Aromatic Harmony
Olfactory Chord - Definition and Concept
Definition: An olfactory chord is the harmonious combination of different aromatic ingredients that merge to create a new olfactory identity, greater than the sum of its individual parts. This concept, inspired by musical theory, represents one of the most artistic and technical aspects of modern perfumery.
Principles of Olfactory Chords
Aromatic Synergy
The concept of 1 + 1 = 3 in perfumery. The result is a new emerging aromatic identity, where it is impossible to identify the individual components, achieving a perfect balance between ingredients.
Musical Inspiration
There is a parallelism between musical notes and aromatic ingredients. Composition is the art of combining individual elements to create a work of art greater than its components.
Types of Olfactory Chords
Classic Traditional Chords
Rose Chord
Typical composition: Rose, Geranium, Synthetic Peony, Linalool. Result: a more complex and rich rose than the natural one.
Amber Chord (Ámbar)
Typical composition: Labdanum, Benzoin, Vanilla, Musks. Result: an enveloping warmth that does not exist in nature.
Fougère Chord
Typical composition: Lavender, Geranium, Oakmoss, Coumarin. Result: evocation of the forest and nature.
Innovative Modern Chords
Aquatic Accord
Typical composition: Calone, Cascalone, Ozonic molecules, Aquatic cedar. Result: evocation of the ocean and sea breeze.
Gourmand Accord
Typical composition: Vanilla, Synthetic caramel, Tonka bean, Sweet musks. Result: evocation of sweets and desserts.
Solar Accord
Typical composition: Solar molecules, Ylang ylang, Synthetic coconut, White musks. Result: evocation of the sun and holidays.
5. Temporal Development and Evolution of Fragrances
Development Phases of a Fragrance
Opening Phase (0-15 minutes)
Maximum intensity of top notes. First olfactory impression and initial decision of attraction or rejection.
Transition Phase (15-60 minutes)
Gradual fading of top notes and progressive revelation of heart notes. Period of greatest aromatic change.
Heart Phase (1-4 hours)
Predominance of heart notes. Maximum expression of the character of the Fragrance and period of greatest aromatic stability.
Base Phase (4+ hours)
Predominance of base notes. Maximum duration and persistence, with the final and memorable impression.
Factors Influencing Temporal Development
- Intrinsic Factors (of the Fragrance): Concentration, formulation, quality of ingredients.
- Extrinsic Factors (of the Environment): Temperature, humidity, air movement.
- Individual Factors (of the Person): Skin type, pH, body temperature, personal chemistry.
6. Interaction between Notes: Harmony and Dissonance
Principles of Olfactory Harmony
Aromatic Consonance
Combinations of notes perceived as harmonious and balanced. Examples: Rose + Geranium, Bergamot + Lavender.
Controlled Dissonance
Aromatic tensions used artistically to create interest. Examples: Jasmine + Indole, Rose + Oud.
Classic Harmonies in Perfumery
Chypre Triad
Bergamot - Rose - Oakmoss. Perfect balance between freshness, femininity, and sophistication.
Fougère Triad
Lavender - Geranium - Coumarin. Classic masculinity with sophistication.
7. Personalization and Individual Variability
Factors Affecting Individual Perception
Skin Chemistry
The pH and skin type (oily or dry) intensify or soften certain notes, affecting the duration and development of the Fragrance.
Olfactory Genetic Factors
Each person has a unique combination of olfactory receptors, causing specific sensitivities or anosmias to certain molecules.
Psychological and Cultural Factors
Olfactory memory, personal associations, and cultural preferences influence the interpretation and liking of a Fragrance.
Personalization Techniques
Layering (Superposition)
Apply multiple Fragrances to create a personal and unique combination.
Strategic Application
Apply on different areas (pulse points, clothing, hair) to modulate projection and duration.
